It seems like every time Jeff and I travel to a new-to-us town in Mexico, we decide we could live there.

Zacatecas was no different.

We were nearing the end of our four-month road-trip through the Mexican colonial highlands, and had just completed another month-long Spanish language course, so we were ready for some free-time to practice what we learned. And Zacatecas was the perfect place, since there were very, very few English-speakers in this World Heritage site located practically in the geographical center of Mexico.

Driving in to Zacatecas, it was impossible not to notice the clean, wide sidewalks, the youthful vibe, the hilly streets and the beautiful pink quarry-stone buildings. Our friend Nancy was traveling with us and we already had our “must-do” list, in addition to our regular museum, mercado and restaurant exploration.

First up was a hike to Bufa Hill, one of the greatest silver mines in the world. At 2,610 meters above sea level (8562 feet), the top afforded great views of the city, along with a little museum and more statues of local heros. We opted for the cable car down, and got an inspiring peek at the city we would explore for the next five days.

Since Zacatecas was such an important mining city, La Mina el Eden is a highlight of any trip to Zacatecas. The tour is approximately a mile long, and includes galleries of regional fossils, hanging bridges and tunnels, and lifelike depictions of the miners and the complicated conditions they worked in. Silver and gold were mainly mined here. The entertaining stories told by the guides were well worth the tour. Very, very different from the coal mines back home in rural Appalachia.

Located in a vault that was once used to grind the minerals, El Malacate Discotheque is now a state of the art nightclub, featuring a different type of “grinding” altogether.  Access to the discotheque is via a small train through La Esperanza Cavern, a tunnel 656 yards long. Since the action doesn’t get started until midnight, we didn’t partake in the disco.

 

The Cathedral,is the focal point in Zac, with its stunning main facade of detailed carvings.  Built between 1729 and 1752, the pink-stone cathedral grabbed my attention more than possibly any other cathedral in all of Mexico. It is known as one of the most outstanding examples of Baroque art in the country.

A short drive out of the city brought us to the archaeological site of La Quemada. Developed between 300 and 1200 A.D.,it was an important part of the cultural development in Mesoamerica. There were no guides around to give us a tour, and only four other people were visiting while we were there, so I recommend if you go, read up on it first, so you have a clue what you are seeing. (We didn’t).

One afternoon, Nancy and I went museum-hopping, specifically in search of the Rafael Coronado Museum. Known to display a collection of over 3000 masks from around the world, this fantastic museum has an additional 8000 in storage. The masks are made of natural materials including bone (some human), shells, animal parts, feathers, wood and more. Hire a guide for the best experience and understanding. (Again, we didn’t). Note! The museum is closed on Wednesdays.

While we were searching for the Rafael Coronel Museum, we mistakenly stepped into the Pedro Coronel Museum. (I know, confusing if you are only asking for the Coronel Museum.) While there were no masks, there was a fantastic collection of modern art including not only works of Pedro Coronel himself, but his collection of Juan Miros, Goyas, Picassos, Marino Marinis, Max Ernest and even Salvador Dali. There is also an impressive collection of African and Asian art. We both agreed it was a most fortunate mistake! (No pictures allowed. Sorry)

The airbnb we stayed at was 2 blocks from the lovely Parque Sierra de Alicia, with many trees, greenspace, a walking path and wooden bridges. It was the perfect place to take the pups for their walks. An aquaduct also crosses the park.

Zacatecas was a very pleasant surprise for us, since we had no expectations. Too often overlooked, and not on the radar of foreign tourists (we didn’t see any other gringos at all), I highly recommend a visit to what many say is one of the most beautiful cities in the Americas.